Pearl Grading

Pearls have their own value factors specific to pearls as diamonds have the 3 c’s which are specific to diamonds. Pearls have seven value factors, which are:

Size
Shape
Color
Luster
Surface Quality
Nacre Quality
Matching

Size: is always measured in millimeters and rounded the nearest 0.5mm. Pearls range from 2mm to 20+mm in size. For spherical pearls the width is measured; for other shapes, length and width are measured. The larger the pearl, the more value it has.

Shape: Spherical pearls include round, semi-round or near-round shapes. Symmetrical pearls are drop, oval and button shapes. Finally, baroque covers semi-baroque, which are off-round, slightly irregular shapes and baroque shapes have a noticeably irregular appearance. Round pearls command top dollars with drop shapes coming in a very close second.

Color: Pearls have three-color components: bodycolor, overtone and orient. Bodycolor is the overall color of the pearl; overtone refers to one or more translucent colors overlying the bodycolor and finally orient is an iridescence that appears to be on or just below the surface. All pearls have bodycolor however not all pearls have overtone and/or orient.

Luster: is how the light is reflected off the surface of the pearl. The more mirror-like the light reflects off the pearls, the more valuable it is. As luster drops in pearls, the reflections take on a hazy, blurred or satiny look. A bright, sharp, distinct reflection marks and excellent pearl luster.

Surface Quality: Most pearls have some surface characteristics or irregularities. The size, number, location, visibility and types of blemishes judge these conditions. Few pearls are completely blemish-free; those that are command high prices.

Nacre Quality: Nacre quality is determined by its thickness and layering. The longer a mollusk is allowed to culture its bead nucleus, the thicker the nacre layer is. Thin nacres on pearls harvested too soon will look dull or chalky. Some may even show evidence of the bead nucleus through the nacre. A higher nacre quality, helps create a more beautiful pearl.

Matching: This described the uniformity of pearls in jewelry. It takes time to inventory and sort/collect pearls for a single necklace. Although matching is not a true pearl quality factor, it does impact its value.

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